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OT, but hi Repack and Che. I left TL because of PPJ too, but now I write for 2 blogs. One in NYC the other LA.

..Hollywood and Surfing. There's never been a good "surf movie" made in Hollywood. Endless Summer was not "hollywood" and "Big Wednesday" is the only possible exception but its still "hollywood". "Back to the Beach" is complete and utter satire and that gives it some redeemable qualities. The absolute best part of the movie is the SRV and DD jam.

For real quality Surf Movies, check out Riding Giants by Stacy Peralta, Step into Liquid (a little campy and could've been called "Endless Summer III") and one I should own but caught on Pay-per-View "Bustin' Down the Door". That last one is so good, most people don't even realize that surfers don't surf like that anymore. It is a documentary of the surfers of the 70's who literally broke the Hawaiian monopoly on surfing and founded the modern Professional Surfing scene. In the 70's, surfers didn't wear leashes and that made for a different style of surfing and a different type of surfer. That was how I learned and how I sometimes still will surf. You lose your board, you swim!

Some of it was kinda real as far as life stories go.
They filmed alot of the surfing at the Ranch in Santa Barbara.
Namely Cojo. Cojo is in the Bixby ranch. Cojo gets reallllllllllllllllllly Gooooodddd.
I checked for a youtube vid, but the don't have one under Cojo. Pronounced KoHo.
It's out very close to Point Conception. Walking distance if you don't mind a hike.
It's all private property out there. Guest's and owners only.
There's two places out there called the "Ranch".
The Hollister Ranch mostly fall and winter surf. The Hollister Ranch is on the South Eastern side. The coast there runs almost east west. And the Bixby Ranch. Summer south swells. Bixby is the more private one. The Hollister Ranch was opened up for sale to people back in the early 70's. People built vacation homes and such.
Very strict building regs. Nothing big. Kinda like cabins.
The Bixby Ranch is still a working Ranch. Cattle grazing.
I have a friend who invites me in to the Bixby Ranch a few times a year.
Theres alot of interesting stories about the B/Ranch.
There's an Indian tribe that lived there. It was sacred lands to them. Lots of burial grounds around there. Especially right on the bluffs up from the beach.
You can find arrow heads and pottery. Even some human bones stick out of the ground. You don't touch those.
The winter storms and the erosion have taken away some of the bluffs. Things start to show up.
I can't think of the name of the tribe that lived there.
I know the name, I just can't think of it right now. The Chumash Indians.
It's beautiful out there. Lots of guys boat in.
I used to do that in the late 70's . No fun. Gets really rough. In a small boat. No fun. If your motor konks out.
You're going to the Channel Islands.
I was talking to another friend who owns property in the Hollister side who had some friend boat in on an inflatable.
There motor konked out on the way back. They had to use their surfboards as paddles to make it to a buoy right before dark. The tied up to the buoy, and the next day a sailboat just happened to come by and got them help.
This happens almost every year.
The surf gets super good there though.
A friend and I were coming back once in a 14ft aluminum late in the day. The wind started blasting up to 45mph.Offshore. We got blown out to sea about 3-4 miles.
We hit a headland and made it back close to the beach. Then we stayed real close the rest of the way. Then just beached it right up on the beach. We took a beating .
Better to be invited in and drive in.
Big Wednesday was ok. Like I said, the story lines were pretty accurate. That stuff happened to alot of guys .
Drugs, booze, no real profession.
But, they got waves. Only a surfer knows the feeling:)